Where to eat, stay and play in Venice, according to experts

Venice is difficult. On the one hand, he is one of the most visited destinations in Europe and perhaps in the world.Almost all year round, it's crowded, expensive, and confusing for first-timers (exactly teeth (What's the difference between a gondola, a vaporetto, and a traghetto?) And all too often, the scene of many Italian food murders was depicted.

But we're here to put the brakes on the Venice bashing.

As we watched the sun set over the Grand Canal in a palette of oranges and pinks, the pitter-patter of motorboats and the squeal of gondolas in the foreground, my colleague and companion remarked: travel + leisure Contributor Erica Firpo said, “Venice doesn't let you hate it.” Despite all the frustrations and disappointments this city can bring to unprepared visitors, Venice will always be Venice. Geographically absurd, transcendent, almost painfully beautiful, and once you cut through all the clutter, it's mesmerizing.

Here, I've extracted the best parts to create a guide to Venice, which I've visited many times, including unmissable sights, unforgettable hotels, and best places to travel. cicchetti and umbraand where you can get hidden moments.

Best Hotels & Resorts

St. Regis Venice

T+L readers' favorite Venice hotels have earned that rank. Perfect from any angle. Art and light-filled spaces give this historic hotel a modern feel, while Murano glass fittings and views of the Grand Canal ensure you'll never forget the city you're in. Try St. R's signature Bloody Mary.

Hotel Flora

In a city full of great hotels, Flora is always on my shortlist. What it lacks in five-star bells and whistles, it makes up for in a warm welcome, fair prices, and beautiful gardens that are the heart of the hotel. This is a unique hotel in Venice, owned and managed by a local family.

venice venice

The most exciting new entrant in Venice's hotel world, Venezia Venezia, calls its approach and design “post-Venetian.” Spacious rooms with contemporary art installations and bespoke modern furniture breathe new life into the bones of an ancient palace. The views of Rialto aren't too shabby either.

what to do

gondola ride

This is a controversial hill and I'm prepared to die. He'll regret it if he doesn't take a gondola ride at least once during his trip to Venice. Floating cities become even more magical on the water. We recommend finding a gondola station in San Polo Sestiere and crossing the area's quiet canals.

Doge's Palace Secret Itinerary Tour

Once the political and financial seat of the mighty Republic of Venice, the Doge's Palace remains a treasure trove of hidden stories and legends, encoded iconography, and monumental art and architecture. On this guided tour, you'll learn much of this fascinating information and get priority entry to the palace.

Visit Burano Island

Famous for its colorful houses, Burano is the perfect place to enjoy your IG reels. But this island of lacemakers and fishermen at the northern end of the lagoon is more than just a beautiful place: it's a working-class village where ancient traditions are still alive and well. Arrive early in the morning or late afternoon to beat the crowds.

take me to the guggenheim

With its astonishing collection quality and intimate scale, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is a must-see for lovers of 20th century art. Located in Guggenheim's former mansion, this museum is a vivid reminder of how great the Guggenheim was in championing surrealism and abstract art in the last century.

best shopping

Godi Fiorenza

This year marks the 20th anniversary of this boutique and atelier run by sisters Patrizia and Samanta Fiorenza. It's a favorite of art expert Gilles Weinreich Luppi, who has lived in Venice for nearly 30 years. “Godi Fiorenza is a really special person,” she says. “The clothes are amazing and the jewelry is always wonderful and original.”

francis model

Skip Italian chain stores and cheap foreign products for items that remind you of your trips to Venice over the years. Handmade leather bags from this homespun brand. I still get compliments on the chartreuse suede number I bought two years ago.

MEG glass

I still haven't brought home my handmade Murano glass, so I live with that regret. But it doesn't have to be. This hidden gem near the Ostrege Bridge stocks colorful glassware (ask for shipping costs) as well as the usual curiosities at affordable prices.

Gilberto Penzo

For a unique gift for a hobbyist or curious child, nothing says Venice more than this fun and messy Bottega boat model kit. Penzo builds and sells kits such as gondolas, vaporettos, and water taxis, as well as complete models and other nautical-themed gifts.

best nightlife

Walking Riva

Surprisingly, Venice is not a big city with great nightlife and tends to close early, even on weekends. An evening walk along the Grand Canal towards the Giardini della Biennale (turn left from St. Mark's Square) is a lovely way to spend an evening.

Head to Cannaregio

The sestiere still retains the vestiges of working-class Venice and is home to the Jewish ghetto. Lined with bar after bar along the Fondamenta de la Misericordia, the canal is lined with simple private boats rather than gondolas or water taxis, and there's plenty of space to enjoy a drink (and some cicchetti, too). there is.

Arts Bar Venice

If you can't splurge in a room at the St. Regis, at least sip a fancy cocktail at this chic hotel's bar. Art exhibitions and events are held one after another. Each custom concoction (some in a smoked dome) features unique glassware designed by artists and manufactured in Berengo Studio. Our resident singer/guitarist will play all the songs you know by heart.

best restaurant

cantina do spades

There is also a sit-down restaurant here, but we prefer the crowded Cicchetti Bar. Order snacks at the counter and join a communal table, or juggle drinks and plates in the narrow alley outside. There are a lot of bad cicchetti in Venice, but not here.

Nebody

Weinreich Luppi took me to this cozy restaurant she calls “a true neighborhood spot that's reliable, always delicious, and run by people who clearly love what they do.” is. It was worth the walk to Via Garibaldi, in the authentic Castello neighborhood, to enjoy homemade pasta and bread, garden-grown vegetables and freshly caught fish in an unpretentious and cozy atmosphere.

Trattoria al Gatto Nero

It's always nice when a famous restaurant deserves the publicity. I also finally discovered it when I had the chance to eat at this Burano landmark. We were guided through a menu of fresh seafood fresh off the ship, including a signature dish, a wonderfully delicate risotto de go.If you visit in autumn or spring, be sure to look for it. moetche, Venice Soft Shell Crab. Don't even think about showing up without an appointment.

Bar Al Arco

This small bar near the Rialto Bridge is Weinreich Luppi's “first and eternal choice for Cicchetti.” It's a very special little place and it's amazing what can come out of a kitchen the size of a postage stamp. ” Baccalà mantecato, the classic Venetian cicchetti with creamed cod on polenta or toasted bread (much better than it looks), is a must-try dish here.

best time to visit

If you want to see Venice with less crowds, be prepared for some bad weather and visit in November or December, before the holiday rush, or in January or February (but before the Carnevale event begins). ). Basically, if you are visiting during high season in a month other than those mentioned above, plan to leave early, take a break in the afternoon, and return in the evening.

For several reasons related to the well-being of the city, we recommend staying in Venice and spending your vacation in Euros. in Venice. Another reason to sleep in Lagoon City? There will be new admission fees for day trippers and caps on tour group sizes on certain days of the year.

How to get to Venice

There are direct flights to Venice Marco Polo International Airport (VCE) from several cities in the eastern United States, including New York and Atlanta. From VCE, you can take a bus to Santa Maria Lucia train station on Venice's waterfront, take the Arilaguna shuttle boat, or take a private water taxi into the city.

Trains from all over Italy arrive at Santa Maria Lucia station, overlooking the Grand Canal. You can take the vaporetto (water bus) from the train station to the stop closest to your hotel, or you can take an expensive private water taxi.

If you have a car in Italy, you will need to park it on land and take the train to Santa Maria Lucia or the water bus to the city. There are no cars in Venice.

Moving method

You can reach most places in Venice on foot, but many areas require walking. You'll likely be dragging your suitcase over bridges and stairs, so it's wise to pack light.

The main means of transportation are:

vaporetto: Venice's water buses roar along the Grand Canal from 5 a.m. until midnight, serving Murano, Burano, Venice Lido, and other points in the lagoon.

Traget: These standing-room-only gondolas cross the Grand Canal in areas where there are no nearby bridges.

Water taxi: The most expensive option, a private water taxi, is useful if you have a lot of luggage and want a quick stop at your hotel's “porta d'acqua” or water door.