YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK – A cyclist in brightly colored, skin-tight shorts and top keeps his helmeted head low and pedals his legs into the headwind on a steep hill near Norris Geyser Basin. Imagine you are climbing a mountain.
Then, humming quietly, the Joker comes riding past them, wearing a Hawaiian shirt and riding an upright town cruiser bicycle. The self-paced boy shouts hello and waves, ringing a handlebar-mounted bell as they pass.
Scenarios like this are becoming more common these days, and may signal the end of the days when spring biking to Yellowstone National Park was dominated by traditional cyclists. Brightening the landscape right now are e-bikers of all shapes, sizes, and ages. Thanks to technology, even the average rider can trek through places that were once only ventured by the brave, daring, and physically fit.
sun seeker
The weekend of April 13th was a classic example of the new era. Unlike spring days that can bring snow and sleet, like when the edge of Yellowstone goes from freezing to frigid, this day had temperatures in the 60s and deep blue skies.
The Upper Terrace Drive parking lot above Mammoth Hot Springs was littered with cyclists gearing up. Some people dressed up in festive costumes, including pink onesies and hand-stitched possum costumes complete with rodent teeth, just a few of the many bizarre costumes.
The vehicle ejecting the rider went down the hillside. Other visitors parked at Mammoth and braved the switchbacks to gates blocking vehicles for this temporary cycling season.
When the roads between Mammoth and West Yellowstone are cleared of snow in the spring, bicyclists can travel the route largely vehicle-free, except for the occasional passing crew.
We considered climbing out of Gardiner along the new road built after the 2022 flood washed away the old route of the Gardiner River. The replacement highway meanders above Slide Lake along a former stagecoach road. The polling place offers spectacular views looking back to the Absaroka Mountains and Gardiner Basin. However, I was discouraged from climbing the mountain because it might drain my bike's battery.
Jay O'Connor, who guides e-bike tours into the park, warns: “It's great going down, but it's tough going up.” “It will drain your battery.”
no snow
It was in 2013 that I first set foot in Yellowstone during the April cycling season. All the warnings about self-rescue, unpredictable weather, and possible encounters with bears and bison, not to mention the 100-mile round trip, made me nervous. This is only the third time I've maxed out my cycling muscles. Others went one way for two years, or waited until the roads were open to vehicles and used that to shorten the distance.
Throughout these years, the weather is cool and can be expected at elevations ranging from 5,500 feet to 7,500 feet. We pedaled through snow, rain, sleet, and wind, all of which are numbing conditions for cycling.
The weather this time was incredibly calm. Cyclists flocked to Yellowstone's north entrance. Coats and mittens may be left in the vehicle. Sunscreen was more important.
Animal numbers were small, with most of the elk and pronghorn congregating near Gardiner, and the bison relaxing on the green grass of the mammoths before just beginning their trek toward the Swan Lake plains.
Rapid increase in electric bicycles
My guess is that perhaps a quarter of the cyclists ventured from the locked gate to the Norris Basin overlook on electric bikes. Pedaling into a headwind with about 1,200 feet of elevation gain, he covered 17 miles in no time, stopping at Roaring Mountain to soak up some sun, watch for crows, and eat a sandwich.
On the way home, we were lucky enough to have a friend drive us back to Gardiner so we could both ride down the winding switchbacks. This route descends approximately 1,100 feet in elevation over 6 miles.
The alternate road from Mammoth to Gardiner has a 10% descent with several hairpin turns, which is great fun on a bike, but not when towing a loaded snowmobile trailer in icy conditions. not.
The Park Service is considering building a new north entrance road. If a different route is chosen, the temporary road could be opened to bikers and hikers. This would give Yellowstone visitors another paved, car-free route year-round.
jealousy or anger
Mr O'Connor has been in the e-bike touring business for four years and said he still gets taunts from traditional cyclists who call him a “fraud”. He said offended cyclists at times almost threw punches.
He told those who were insulted by mechanical assistants: “Wait a minute, someday your knees and hips will be strong enough to make electric bikes appealing.”
“I think electric bikes are a great investment,” he said. “And they’re here to stay.
“It's a bicycle with auxiliary functions.”
