At the end of April, I visited the Westin Maui Resort & Spa, located on the sunny shores of Kaanapali, about five miles north of Lahaina. The luxury hotel had just completed his $160 million renovation, and he invited the media to tour it.
And it was everything you'd expect a multi-million dollar renovation to be: an infinity-edge cocktail pool in one of the renovated towers, complete with chaise lounges and flat-screen TVs. Spacious cabanas and luxurious suites overlooking the ocean. .
Despite this, this property, as well as the surrounding beaches and shops, were not crowded at all, even during what is supposed to be the busiest season for travel to the island. There were no long lines at Ulu Kitchen, the hotel's new restaurant by chef Peter Merriman, and it was surprisingly easy to find a secluded spot on usually crowded Kaanapali Beach. Let me tell you.
According to the Hawaii Tourism Authority, travel to Maui in March was down 25.5% from a year earlier. Maui tourist spending and hotel occupancy rates are also down. The number of U.S. tourists to Maui is the highest since deadly wildfires in August 2023, but the rate of arrivals by air to Maui drops to 51.4% due to the wildfires. did. That number is significantly lower than it should be.
To be honest, I had mixed feelings about visiting West Maui. At the time, it had been about nine months since wildfires destroyed the seaside town of Lahaina, killing at least 101 people and displacing thousands more. Just outside the hotel, the Lahaina Strong group is occupying Kaanapali Beach as part of its Fishing for Housing initiative, pleading with government officials to find long-term “dignified housing” for fire survivors. was. (After I left, that group finished occupying the beach.)
And here I was, enjoying a Mai Tai right near their camp. It is no exaggeration to say that I was conflicted.
But the people at the hotel, many of whom had been personally affected by the bushfires, assured me that my visit was wanted and needed.
“For people, it's personal, it's sacred, it's spiritual,” explained Jared Kahaiari, assistant spa director at the hotel where his family home was destroyed. He ran a donation hub at a hotel that provided housing to more than 250 displaced people. He understands the importance of tourists returning to Maui to strengthen the county's economy. “Please come back and stay.”
Last month, HTA launched “Makaukau Maui,” a campaign to demonstrate that Makaumaui is ready to welcome visitors again and to revitalize Maui's economy. (Kahaiali is featured in this campaign.) But let's be honest: if you walk along the Lahaina Bypass from Kahului to Kaanapali, past more than 100 white crosses and Hawaiian flags erected along the overlooking hillsides, It was difficult to drive for 50 minutes. A city flattened, each representing a life lost. You know, Lahaina was there, and it was once a vibrant, culturally significant place, with homes and schools and people, and it's gone. It's a strange feeling.
I was waiting for the online hate to come at me. Accounts I follow recently reposted Instagram photos taken at restricted locations on Maui, including Kaihalulu Beach (aka Red Sand Beach) and Honomanu Bay, shaming violators. Another IG friend, Lisa Deniz, was hated for posting a photo of Krispy Kreme's Kahului location, which is a mainland-based franchise rather than a locally owned bakery. And I was hanging out in a luxury cabana overlooking the Fishing for Housing tent. I wondered what people would say.
As it turned out, I didn't receive any comments or DMs attacking my decision to spend the day in Ka'anapali. In fact, we had more questions about this visit. People wanted to know what the area was like (great), if any places were still closed (yes), and if visitors were welcome (of course).
West Maui is getting a lot of help, with Senate Bill 2919 passed and the county potentially phasing out short-term rentals in apartment districts as early as 2026, and Gov. Josh Green announcing Maui Relief Assistance allocated $362 million in emergency appropriations. Do your best. Visiting Maui and even spending money on Krispy Kreme goes a long way. One hotel employee said to me: “I've already lost my home. I can't afford to lose my job either.”
But I'm wondering about the rest of the island. West Maui gets a lot of attention, and rightly so, but what about Hana, Wailuku, and Makawao? Many of the county's proposed wildfire-related budget funding projects, including housing, infrastructure, roads and personnel, could put other Maui towns on the back burner.
I don't agree that West Maui needs help right now. But the island is functioning as a whole. Someone who lost their home in Lahaina may now live in Haiku and work in Paia. If visitors don't come to Maui, they probably won't buy banana bread at Halfway to Hana in Keanae or sample wine at Maui Wines in Ulupalakua. They don't stay in hotels where residents work or shop at resident-owned boutiques.
Deniz took to Instagram to address the negative comments she received about Krispy Kreme – oddly from non-residents – and said that she has been working with Takamiya Market, Kula Country Farms, Wailuku Distillery and Ali'i Kura. -Replyed with a list of all the other Maui businesses she patronizes, including Lavender. .
“I'm sorry you feel this way,” she wrote. “I am proud to spend my money on a franchise that employs local Maui residents. I'm grateful for what you've done for me.”
In the comments section, user @itsfayebulous replied: My mom works as a food processor at Krispy Kreme Maui, and even though it's a national franchise, the entire store is locally operated. ”
“When I heard that comment, it literally filled my heart,” Deniz told me.
Maui, as well as West Maui, could use some economic stimulus. Therefore, spend your vacation wisely.
Civil Beat's coverage of Maui County is supported in part by a grant from the Nuestro Futuro Foundation.
