This article National Geographic Traveler (England).
Founded in the 16th century by the Knights of St. John, Valletta has retained much of its old charm, with narrow streets lined with honey-coloured buildings and views of the Mediterranean Sea in the distance. It's small, covering just 0.3 square miles, so all the attractions are within walking distance. Here's how to make the most of your time in Valletta.
Opened in 1837, this elegant café in the city centre serves traditional Maltese cuisine as well as Pastizzi (a savory pastry stuffed with ricotta cheese, peas and beef) and round Cassatat Not only do they serve pies (often filled with peas), but they also serve up a sublime atmosphere: marble floors, gilded ceilings and elegant chandeliers provide the backdrop for your coffee and cakes, and they also sell treats to take away if you can't wait to explore.
If you visit one museum in Valletta, make it this 16th-century palace, home to the 9th Marquis Piro. It's a fantastic time warp with Maltese and imported artefacts on display. A series of treasure-filled rooms contain everything from a portable altar hidden in a desk to what may be the last set of medical equipment of the Knights of St John. There's also an underground tunnel that served as a shelter during bombings in WWII. Tours run every hour and last around 45 minutes.
11am: Take a water taxi to the Three Cities
If you want to combine spectacular views of the Valletta skyline with sea adventures, Doghaja You can hop on a water taxi (traditional water taxi) to the historic towns known as the Three Cities across the Grand Harbour. Tours depart from the water below the Upper Barrakka Gardens for a few euros per person and take about 15 minutes each way, or you can ask a captain to arrange a private boat tour of the harbour.
Filled with vintage posters and quirky artwork, like upside-down milk bottles transformed into pendant lights, this homey, family-run restaurant in Valletta's historic centre specialises in cuisine from Malta's neighbouring island, Gozo. Tuck into dishes like sheep's cheese ravioli in tomato and basil sauce, rabbit stew with orange, spices and red wine, and roasted bone marrow stuffed with beef. Wash it all down with a Maltese craft beer, such as the local Cisk lager or Blue Lagoon Witbier.
Opened in 1732 by Antonio Manoel de Villena, Grand Master of the Order of St John, the Manoel Theatre is a fine example of a surviving Baroque theatre. Twice daily tours, weekdays at 11am and 3pm, cost €5 (£4) and allow you to climb from your seat into the wooden boxes, where the people-watching opportunities are often just as thrilling as what's on offer on stage.
Located on a quiet side street in a building that once served as a slaughterhouse, Valletta Design Cluster doesn't look like much from the outside, but once you step into the lobby and take the elevator to the top floor, a lush surprise awaits. A lush rooftop garden with chairs, tables and a pond offers panoramic views of the surrounding city rooftops and is the perfect al fresco spot to sit and relax for an hour surrounded by trees, shrubs and fragrant lavender flowers.
As the sun goes down, stroll through Valletta's historic centre and stop into this popular cocktail bar where bartender Ilián Iliev blends creative flavours with artistic flair. Try a clarified Negroni. Paintings and photographs line the walls, and each cocktail features a recognisable (and drinkable) masterpiece floating on the surface, such as Munch's “The Scream” or Botticelli's “The Birth of Venus”.
Located on South Valletta's waterfront facing Fort St. Angelo and the Three Cities, this elegant and popular restaurant is set in an 18th-century building and offers stunning views over the Grand Harbour. The menu is inspired by the city's skyline, with dishes like locally sourced pork loin with celery and pork gratin on Strait Street, and crab tart with Marie Rose sauce on Old Theatre Street. A rarity in meat-loving Malta, a 7-course tasting menu is also available for vegans.
British Airways operates direct flights from Gatwick to Malta several times a week, sometimes even daily depending on the season. Other airlines such as easyJet, KM Air Malta and Ryanair also operate flights from London airports to Malta, with frequency varying depending on the season.
Valletta's attractions are best explored on foot; plan to walk if possible, as taxis cannot reach some streets within the city. For more remote attractions, rent a car for maximum flexibility. Malta does not have a train network, but there are public buses that connect some destinations.
When to go:
As one of Europe's sunniest capitals, there's no bad time to visit Valletta. Winters are cooler and rainier but still mild and comfortable, with temperatures in the mid-teens. Summers are very hot and dry, with temperatures well over 30°C, so it's best to combine your visit with a stay at a nearby seaside resort. Few hotels in downtown Valletta have outdoor space or large pools.
Where to stay:
Phoenicia Malta, Floriana area. Double rooms from €356 (£305). Casa Rocca Piccola B&B, Old Town area. Double rooms from €190 (£162).
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