When I arrived at Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, I was surprised to see several Korean women wearing traditional costumes, as well as some men. They helped me channel my imagination into this UNESCO World Heritage Site that dates back to the 15th century. Although Changdeokgung Palace has been ruined and rebuilt many times, it is considered the most architecturally beautiful of her five royal palaces in Seoul.
There I noticed several white women wearing Korean dresses and asked them why. They told us that we could rent Korean clothing at the store across the street and that admission to the palace was also free. Of course, the rental price was much higher than the entrance ticket, but they seemed to have a lot of fun adding to the atmosphere of the palace.
Changdeokgung Palace is special because it has a secret garden that requires a separate admission ticket. The palace was originally built as a retreat for the royal family, and the gardens occupy 60% of the palace grounds. I enjoyed strolling through the tranquil landscape of flowering trees and shrubs surrounded by observation decks. There is a beautiful lotus pond that is full of flowers in summer.
The next day, I joined an overseas adventure travel group and visited Gyeongbokgung Palace. It is the largest of the five palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, the longest reigning ruler of South Korea. Gyeongbokgung Palace was much more crowded with tourists, including those wearing traditional costumes.
Originally built in the 14th century, Gyeongbokgung Palace has also been destroyed and rebuilt several times. Currently, this huge complex includes approximately 500 buildings and his 7,700 rooms. Visitors tour some of these, noting the magnificent Throne Hall. The National Palace Museum and the National Folklore Museum are also located within the palace complex, and admission to both is free.
The National Museum, located in another part of the vast city of Seoul, is also a must-see for free. Introducing more than 5,000 years of Korean art, culture, and history. A highlight (and a great place for a museum break) is the pensive Bodhisattva and the room for quiet contemplation.
Seoul is a huge city. The population is well over 10 million people, and almost one-half of Koreans live in metropolitan areas. Despite being cut off from land access by North Korea, South Korea's economy is thriving. Everyone and everything, if not produced domestically, must arrive by plane or ship.
Perhaps that explains the thin, black metal chopsticks used everywhere. Unlike wooden chopsticks, they can be washed and reused forever. However, for us Westerners, we found it difficult to use, especially when using hot food, as the metal gets hot and slips off.
We visited the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) and learned about the division of North and South Korea. The line separates the two Koreas near the 38th parallel, splitting the Korean peninsula almost in half. This buffer zone, 2.5 miles wide and 160 miles long, was established under the 1953 armistice that halted the three-year Korean War. However, no formal peace treaty was signed. The two Koreas are still officially at war.
The DMZ is heavily fortified on both sides, and access for visitors from South Korea is strictly controlled (approved tour groups only, individual visitors prohibited). Taking photos of many things is prohibited. My group went to the Dora Observatory, which offers views of North Korea beyond the Demilitarized Zone. A large telescope on the roof deck offers views of North Korean villages.
Four infiltration tunnels dug by North Koreans as part of a past plot to attack Seoul, just 55 miles to the south, have been discovered under the DMZ. A part of the third infiltration tunnel is open to the public. We went down a long connecting passage and walked through a narrow tunnel for about 20 minutes. It ends with his first of his three sealing walls sealing off the tunnel. There is a small window in front of the second blockade wall, presumably to allow South Korean troops to check for breakthrough attempts.
Afterwards, we visited the War Memorial in Seoul. The exhibit provides further details, starting in 1950 he commemorates the 54,246 Americans killed in action during the 1953 Korean War. The United States and the United Nations continue to have a significant presence in South Korea to deter future North Korean aggression.
A completely different experience was when I visited Gagam Folk Village, an hour and a half drive south of Seoul. Oam is a cultural heritage site as well as an active village with over 200 inhabitants, mainly engaged in agriculture. This historic community was founded in the early 16th century during Korea's Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897).
Walking among the houses with tiled and thatched roofs, you will feel like you have traveled back in time to ancient Korea. Afterwards, we participated in traditional Korean alcohol and chili pepper making. Toiwa Folk Village offers such interactive experiences to both preserve agricultural artifacts and introduce them to tourists.
First, we mixed rice flour, lotus leaves, pine needles, yeast, and water in a bowl to make traditional village wine. Our hostess then scooped the mixture into large jars, where it fermented for months. We found the ready-to-drink wine tasting “interesting”.
We then went to another house and learned how to make gochujang, a fermented red chili paste. We mixed red chili peppers, fermented soybeans, and rice (all in powder form) with water and took it home in small jars. Our host let us sample the finished product and told us that the chili paste would be ready to eat after 100 days.
— Julie Gangler
Julie Gangler visited South Korea on Overseas Adventure Travel's tour “Korea and Japan: Temples, Shrines, and Treasures.'' She is a freelance writer and worked as a media relations consultant for the Snohomish County Tourism Bureau. She began her career as a staff writer for Sunset Magazine, after which she served as the Alaska/Northwest correspondent for Travel Agent Magazine.
