Our convoy of colorful autorickshaws had just arrived at the marigold-orange 19th-century Katgola Palace. The palace was beautifully reflected in the pond in front of it. I was awestruck by his imposing four-story Palladian mansion built by a wealthy local merchant in Murshidabad, India.
Additionally, our riverboat crew arrived ahead of us and provided snacks in the shade of the trees, cheering us up with delicious Indian chai and a small cup of cookies before our guide showed us around the grounds. He gave it to me.
My week-long 250-mile cruise from the town of Farakka to Kolkata on the meandering Hooghly River (also known as the Lower Ganges) was full of trips that surprised me like this. Our transportation was on one of several riverboats owned and operated by Assam Bengal Navigation (ABN), an Indian-British family-run joint venture that also operates cruises on the Brahmaputra and upper Ganges. , a very comfortable 40-seater Raj Mahal.
India is both an incredibly fascinating destination and an overwhelming place to visit. I have visited many times not only by boat but also by train, car and plane and have found that river cruising alleviates many challenges and makes traveling to India convenient, safe and luxurious. I did.
On this cruise, two excursions are usually scheduled twice a day, one before lunch and one after lunch, and we were led by two excellent Indian guides who cruised with us for a week.
/Lunch-buffet-offerings-onboard-the-Raj-Mahal..jpg?n=4602&tr=w-500%2Cfo-auto "Lunch buffet provided on board the Raj Mahal.")
Lunch buffet provided on board the Raj Mahal. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise
Highlights of the excursion included a visit to a 200-year-old Hindu temple in Karna. This temple is beautifully designed with 108 shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva in two concentric circles. Another morning was spent exploring the Indo-Islamic ruins of Gaur's ancient fort, tucked away on the outskirts of a quiet village. It was once one of the largest cities in India.
One day, as we were walking through the farmland, we passed several women in brightly colored saris harvesting rice, and they stopped to take pictures of us. I laughed when I saw it. We strolled through a medieval town where vegetables were piled high on carts pulled by bicycles and oxen, herders moved alongside their goats and cows, and uniformed students shared narrow paths cycling home.
Dickensian workshops, which still carry on traditional trades such as brass and glass making, were also on the agenda. We visited some of his impressive 16th century and his 17th century mosques, as well as a colorful market.
The British passengers were particularly interested in visiting a small monument at the site of the Battle of Plassey, where the British defeated the local rulers in 1757 and changed the course of Indian history. I was surprised to hear that many of the British guests on our trip believed that British rule had greatly benefited India, even though it had been many decades since India's independence.
The Raj Mahal's sundeck had plenty of space to observe the river and riverside life. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise
In-flight experience
After these enlightening excursions, there's nothing better than being greeted by a smiling crew member handing out scented hand towels and refreshing beverages and cleaning your shoes before your next tour as you return to your luxury vessel. That never happened.
Built in 2014, Raj Mahal has 18 spacious double rooms and 4 single-occupancy cabins. All rooms are air-conditioned, have floor-to-ceiling glass sliding doors, and include amenities such as coffee and tea sets (real tea, not tea bags!) and delicious cookie jars that are replenished daily. The classy cabin features hardwoods and Indian hand-block printed fabrics in dark colors. The bathroom, closet, and storage were also plentiful.
Like most European riverboats, the Raj Mahal has an expansive sundeck with seating and views of life along the river. Below deck, the windowed dining room offers buffet-style breakfast, lunch, and dinner service. Delicious dishes featuring Indian curry, bread, and vegetables. Western food options were also available each time and the service was great.
Before and after dinner, the comfortable lounge, which also has a bar, featured films and talks by our guides, or on several nights traditional performances by local dancers and singers. The lounge also has a bar (drinks are not included in the price). There was also a demonstration on how to wrap a sari, dhoti, and turban, as well as a chicken curry cooking class (with samples!). A small spa offers massages.
/The-19th-century-Kathgola-Palace..jpg?n=9633&tr=w-500%2Cfo-auto "Katgola Palace was built in the 19th century.")
Katgola Palace was built in the 19th century. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise
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Some important facts to keep in mind:
Since most people fly in and out of Kolkata, the trip to Farakka and back requires a four-hour train ride at the end of the cruise. This is handled by ABN and included in your cruise fare.
The price also includes all shore excursions, meals, an English-speaking guide, and transportation between your hotel and the train station.
All water on board is bottled and safe to drink. Eco-friendly glass bottles are refilled daily in your cabin, as are tin bottles used on excursions.
For more information, please visit the ABN website.
